Off Track Brothers

The ultimate guide to Self-drive through Kenya’s national parks on a budget

Kenya is one of the best destinations in Africa for a safari, boasting a large number of national parks and a wildlife population that is both incredible and diverse. The truth is, if you search online for ways to do it independently and alone without travel agencies or guides, it’s almost impossible to find a detailed itinerary with good advice on how to see as many animals as possible.

Before getting into the details of the recommended route, here are some tips that will be useful for preparing your trip:

1. Bring your camping gear from home. Flights to Africa usually include two checked bags of 23kg per person. If you already have camping gear, take advantage of it and fill one suitcase with everything you need.

In our case, we brought the following, with some recommended links:

• A two-person tent.
• Mats and inflatable pillows.
• Sleeping bags, ideally summer ones that are compact so they don’t take up much space. I recommend one at the following link.
• A headlamp, preferably with a powerful light (you’ll appreciate it when you’re camping and want to check where the animal noises are coming from) and that has a rechargeable battery option and backup batteries so you don’t get left in the dark.
• A rope to hang towels and clothes if you do laundry.
• A knife.
• Mini folding camping chairs.
• A cooking set (pot, pan, cups, and cutlery); I recommend the one in the Amazon link provided, it takes up very little space and includes everything you need.
• Canned or freeze-dried food.
• A gas stove (camping stove) with EasyClic® system (when we went to buy gas canisters, we only found the ones that work with this system, so if you bring a screw-on gas stove, you’re unlikely to find the right canisters. It’s prohibited to carry gas canisters in both hand luggage and checked baggage).
• Binoculars for animal watching.
• A camera. I attach the camera we used along with the lens (ideally no less than 18-250mm, due to the distance from which you’ll observe the animals).

2. Avoid Google search results for car rentals; the prices are outrageous. In the high season (July, August), rentals can be around 1,500 USD for a week. In our case, we rented through a local company, Market Car Hire, which offered us a Toyota Prado 4×4 at a very reasonable price, almost half of the aforementioned price. (If you need direct contact with the person managing the rentals, message me privately via “Contact Us”, and I’ll share it with you).

3. Park entries last 24 hours; if you exceed that time, you’ll have to pay for another day. Entry fees, including camping and car fees, range from 40 USD per person to 90 USD. I’ll detail the cost for each park.

4. For your safety, you cannot leave the vehicle while driving through national parks. Only in specific areas indicated by park personnel.

5. Don’t worry about camping in the middle of national parks; there are specific camping areas. The park rangers made it very clear to us that it’s not dangerous. Depending on the park, some campsites are fenced, others are not. Even if you hear animals at night, they are all afraid of tents and avoid getting close to your camp. To be safe, don’t leave any food remnants as that might attract curiosity and have them wander closer to where you’re sleeping. Always make a fire when camping; it deters animals, and if you put enough wood, it can last the entire night, allowing you to sleep peacefully.

Regarding the travel itinerary, we followed the following route, day by day:

Day 1 – Arrival in Nairobi and Preparation

If you’re going alone, it’s essential to have internet access during the trip, as you’ll need to check maps continuously or use WhatsApp to communicate with people as needed.

Therefore, upon arrival at Nairobi airport, the first thing you should do is get a SIM card for the upcoming days. I recommend NOT purchasing any eSIM plan from where you travel, as it’s much cheaper to buy the data plan directly in Kenya. At the airport exit, there are several phone companies. Of the three main ones (Airtel, Safaricom, and Telkom), we highly recommend either Airtel or Safaricom. They have the most coverage in the area we’ll be traveling. Telkom seems to perform well only in the Mombasa area. Moreover, the price of all of them is quite similar. We paid about 1,200 KES (1,000 for the data plan + 200 for the SIM) – around 9 USD for a weekly 10 GB plan with Airtel.

We also exchanged about 20-40 USD to shillings to pay for the SIM cards and to have some cash for tipping the driver who brought us the car. We recommend exchanging the majority of your cash in the city center, as the exchange rate is much better, and there are plenty of places with security where you can do so without any problem.

With the SIM card installed and some cash exchanged at the airport, we contacted the driver from Market Car Hire, who brought the car to the airport. After carrying out the necessary checks on the vehicle, we were ready to head to the hotel and settle in.

As for the hotel, we booked a good one in the city center. It’s one of the safest areas and is close to almost all services (shopping, currency exchange, a good selection of restaurants…).

Once settled in, we took the car to make the final preparations for the trip. I recommend doing your shopping for the next few days (complete freedom, but it’s important to carry a good amount of bottled water just in case; we calculated 2 liters per person per day, considering that campsites have water for washing and showering). There are several malls with large supermarkets where you can find everything you need. I’d recommend West Gate Mall, Galleria Mall, Prestige Plaza, The Hub Karen…

You can buy camping gas canisters at several places: Decathlon in The Hub Karen mall, Going Outdoors store in Galleria Mall or Anko Retail, a small shop in the Kilimani neighborhood

Day 2 – Departure from Nairobi and First Animals in Amboseli

To reach Amboseli from Nairobi, Google Maps suggests two different routes. Either via the Nairobi-Mombasa Road (A109) or the A104. Although Maps says the trip is longer via the A104, the truth is that the A104 is a prettier road and, more importantly, much less trafficked, making the drive more pleasant and actually allowing you to reach the park sooner.

Additionally, you arrive at the Meshanani Gate, which is the gate located on the westernmost edge of the park, making it an ideal starting point to cover as much ground as possible and gradually delve into the park.

At the entrance, the rangers will guide you on how to buy the ticket through Kenya’s e-citizen online system. The park entry costs 60 USD per person; camping with our tent will cost us an additional 30 USD per person per night (the campsite is near the easternmost gate, Kimana Gate), and lastly, the cost for entering with your own vehicle is around 3 USD. In total, 93 USD per person per day, far less than the amounts charged for organized safaris.

At the entrance, you’ll also see Maasais selling souvenirs and park maps for sale. Although you can always haggle, we bought a park map for about 2,000 KES (around 16 USD). It’s very useful for navigating inside, though you can also use apps like maps.me or Gaia GPS on your phone. We’re also providing the option to buy our personalized map of all the national parks we visited. Including the detail of what routes to take inside the parks, points of interest, areas to see animals, campsites, etc (buying paper maps in each of the parks is around 20 USD):

Kenya Safari on Your Own E-Map

€ 12,00

• Detailed itinerary per day
• Waypoints on the route
• Campsites with description
• Points of interest (viewpoints, what to do in the parks…)
• Possible areas to see animals (NOT guaranteed)
• Restaurant recommendations and other practical information

BUY NOW

You can purchase access to the electronic map for €12, including KML downloads for importing the map data into offline mapping apps such as Maps.me, Organic Maps, or Gaia GPS to use during your trip.

A download link will be available immediately upon purchase. You will also receive instructions on how to use it offline. Please be sure to check your spam folder. If you have not received an email with the download link within 12 hours of purchase, please contact us by email and we will send it to you manually.

By purchasing this E-Map you agree that it is for your sole use only. Please do not share it, or any of its contents, privately or publicly with anyone else. We also ask you to use the wild camp spots responsibly, ensuring you Leave No Trace.

Amboseli is one of Kenya’s smallest national parks (390.26 km2), and it has a high volume of animals. The size, combined with the large number of animals, makes it quite easy to see most of them repeatedly. In a single day, we saw lions, elephants, giraffes, buffaloes, hyenas, wildebeests, zebras, baboons…

As a downside, you’ll see more vehicles, and it might feel a bit crowded, especially depending on the season you travel. The feeling of being lost in the middle of nowhere with only the animals might be less pronounced than in other national parks. As a start to the trip, it’s great because you’re almost guaranteed to see all kinds of animals, and physically it’s not as demanding compared to the upcoming stages.

Day 3 – Sunrise in Amboseli and heading towards Tsavo West

After the first night of camping, we woke up at 6 AM to drive along the paths we hadn’t yet explored in Amboseli, trying to spot as many animals as possible. The best times to see animals are at dawn or dusk, especially in the case of big cats… During the day, they usually rest.

Once we had covered the entire park, we returned to the eastern gate, Kimana Gate, which was perfect for setting off towards Tsavo West, our next national park.

In the town of Kimana, we took the opportunity to refuel for the coming days. The drive from Amboseli to Tsavo West takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes. We would reach the Chyulu Gate of Tsavo West around midday.

Entrance to this national park costs $52 USD, camping is $20 USD per person per night, and the vehicle fee is also about $3 USD. In total, around $75 USD per person per day.

Tsavo West is a much wilder and less crowded national park. Animal sightings are more challenging due to the landscape, which is filled with medium-height shrubs that reduce visibility, limiting the sights on the horizon. Nevertheless, we loved it because, with fewer crowds and the increased difficulty of spotting animals, the sense of returning to the origins of a truly wild safari was fully realized.

For the night, we stayed at Chyulu Campsite, conveniently located near the gate we entered through. It was perfect for continuing our journey through the rest of the park the next morning and heading towards Tsavo East. This campsite was one of my favorites: We were able to camp completely alone. Since it wasn’t fenced, the safari experience felt truly authentic. At night, you can hear the sounds of many animals, mainly hyenas, which are initially intimidating but eventually, you start to appreciate and try to identify which animals they belong to. With a good campfire and ensuring no food is left out, we slept peacefully without any animals coming close. The campsite also has structures where you can set up your tent underneath to prevent elephants and giraffes from getting too close:

There is another campsite in Tsavo West, on the other side of the park, called Kamboyo Campsite. I’ll tell you more about it on Day 7.

Day 4 – Exploring the Wilds of Tsavo West and Tsavo East

We packed up our camp between 6:30 and 7 AM in Tsavo West. It’s recommended to pack up early in the morning to increase your chances of spotting animals.

Our first activity of the day was heading to Mzima Springs. This place consists of a series of four natural springs. The source of these springs is a natural reservoir in the Chyulu Hills, located in the northern part of the park. The Chyulu mountain range is volcanic and too porous to support rivers, so the rainwater seeps in until it emerges here and at several other points. Two kilometers beyond the springs, the stream that forms is blocked by solidified lava and disappears again beneath the surface.

This water-rich area is full of life. In our case, we saw lots of fish, hippos, crocodiles (just 2 meters away!), and monkeys. There are always two rangers at the entrance who, theoretically, accompany you on the walk (approximately 1 km) for security reasons, and you’re expected to tip them if they go with you.

In our case, we walked around on our own with their permission and took our time photographing the animals:

After leaving Mzima Springs, we headed to a volcanic crater, Chaimu Crater, which offers great views of the entire national park. We hiked up in about 15-20 minutes and enjoyed fantastic views of the savanna. We took a break to rest and just observe the horizon:

Once we were finished visiting the crater, we returned to the park’s main road to make our way to the exit at Tsavo River Gate and head towards Tsavo East.

We exited Tsavo West through the Tsavo River Gate, and took the main Nairobi-Mombasa road (A109) driving south for 11 km. Finding the entrance to Tsavo East through the Manyani Gate. 

The entrance fee for this park is the same as for Tsavo West. In total, including the main ticket, car and campsite, it cost us about $75 USD per person per day.

As soon as we arrived, while buying our park tickets, we asked the rangers about the best areas to see animals within the park. On our personalized map you can see the indicated areas.

Tsavo East is probably Kenya’s largest national park, covering an area of 13,747 km². It’s drier and flatter than Tsavo West. According to the rangers, the area south of the Galana River is home to the greatest number and variety of animals. We took note of the recommended route and, just 15 minutes after starting, we were lucky enough to spot a leopard resting under a baobab tree:

Since it was midday and we still had some time before heading to the campsite, we decided to explore more remote areas within the southern part of the park, and later head towards the banks of the Galana River, specifically to Lugard Falls: the rapids formed by the Galana River give life to this waterfall (which is much more voluminous during the rainy season). The rocks here are multicolored, with shades of pink, gray, and white. You can walk along the rocks, always exercising maximum caution, as this area is home to numerous crocodiles and hippos.

A little further on, just 1 kilometer from Lugard Falls, there is a viewpoint where you can observe the crocodiles and hippos that live in the area:

With our time nearly up, we started making our way to Ndololo campsite. The park (as all the parks) closes at 6:00 PM, and although there’s usually some leeway to reach the campsites, we also recommend arriving with enough daylight to set up your camp (the sun sets at  around 7:00 PM).

And surprise! Just as we turned off the main road towards our campsite, we came across three lionesses and their three cubs lounging at sunset. We found them just two meters from the road, and we had plenty of time to take photos and calmly observe them. Simply incredible:

Ndololo campsite is located in the southern part of the park, near one of the park’s main roads, close to the town of Voi. This campsite is also unfenced but does seem to have more visitors. The facilities are good enough, allowing you to shower and freshen up comfortably. To finish the day, we also prepared the firewood we had collected in Tsavo West for the night (if you don’t find wood, you can always buy it from the rangers at the entrance for around 500-1000 KES), had a quick dinner, and settled in for the night.

Day 5 – Malindi and the Watamu Marine Reserve

We took advantage of the early morning to continue exploring some paths near Voi (south part of Tsavo East) and continue spotting animals as we made our way towards the exit, Sala Gate.

We left the park and headed towards the coast. The drive from Tsavo East to Malindi is approximately one hour and forty minutes. Malindi is a very touristy city, particularly popular among Italian tourists. So don’t be surprised if you find many Italian restaurants. In our case, we just stopped to have a pizza, which, by the way, was very good. Specifically, at the Baby Marrow restaurant. It’s a great place to rest after the intense days prior and to enjoy a good pizza.

Malindi is a city with good beaches, but in general, there’s not much to visit aside from the nightlife and tourist resorts. That’s why we decided to continue to Watamu, where the Watamu Marine Natural Reserve is located and also where, and according to what we’ve heard, the beaches are more pristine than those in Malindi.

So, after eating in Malindi, we headed to Watamu, about a 40-minute drive from Malindi. The entrance to the park is much cheaper: $17 USD for entry and $20 USD for camping. A total of $37 USD per person per day.

The campsite is just after the park gate on the right-hand side. It’s a very convenient spot for camping, with the possibility of making a fire like in the other parks. This time, it’s fully enclosed within the park grounds since it’s close to the town of Watamu. At night, it can be a bit hot and humid, so if you bring a small battery-powered fan to use inside your tent, it will definitely save you from some sweating. Here’s the one we used.

Since this natural park is a marine reserve, the activities are entirely focused on the sea; there’s not much to do on land. You can walk to a couple of beaches (Short Beach, Garoda Beach, the second one more crowded), which are clean and quite beautiful, especially for watching the sunset.

In addition to this, boat tours with glass bottoms are organized to view the local marine life. It’s a great spot to see turtles and coral reefs, and also to snorkel and dive among a variety of fish. The park also has over 100 species of birds, which are mostly seen around the lagoon inside the park:

Day 6 – Rest Day in Mombasa

The drive from Watamu to Mombasa takes about 3 hours, mainly due to the traffic caused by road construction at the entrance to Mombasa (in August 2024).

Driving is quite hectic, with tuk-tuks, motorcycles, buses, and cars all requiring careful attention to avoid any mishaps, especially in the city center.

ATTENTION!!!

Driving in Kenya requires great caution and constant alertness to potential dangers that may arise, especially on the A109 highway between Nairobi and Mombasa. The road conditions are not always ideal, with potholes, poorly marked sections, and lack of lighting, particularly in rural areas. Additionally, reckless driving is common, with drivers often overtaking in dangerous spots and not always adhering to safety measures like using seat belts. Overloaded vehicles, such as buses and trucks, are also common and can easily lose control, increasing the risk of serious accidents. The intense and congested traffic, especially due to the high number of cargo trucks and buses, exacerbates the situation and leads to dangerous behavior on the road. This is further compounded by the lack of roadside assistance in case of accidents or mechanical failures, leaving drivers vulnerable, especially in more remote areas.

The most worthwhile site to visit in Mombasa is Fort Jesus, built in 1596 by the Portuguese as a strategic point for defending the city of Mombasa and its trade with other ports around the world.

It’s also nice to stroll through the old town of Mombasa. Thanks to the influence of trade and Arab and Indian immigration throughout its history, you can sample a wide variety of high-quality teas.

Day 7 – Return to Tsavo West, in Search of the Black Rhino

After two days of rest on the coast, we left Mombasa on the main road towards Nairobi (A109). We planned to spend our second-to-last night in Tsavo West, which was on our way for one final stop.

The reason for choosing Tsavo West over Tsavo East in our case was to complete the search of the Big 5 (the African wildlife quintet consisting of the lion, leopard, black rhino, African elephant, and Cape buffalo). We were only missing the rhino, and Tsavo West is home to the Rhino Sanctuary, a fairly large area (90 km2) created to protect black rhinos from poaching. According to what we were told, there are currently about 160 rhinos, with numbers on the rise. The sanctuary only opens for two hours a day, from 3:00 to 5:00 p.m., which means there is very little time to spot this animal.

We arrived just in time to enter the sanctuary, registered the car with the ranger at the entrance, and began visiting the areas where we were told the animals usually frequent. We had no luck until just five minutes past closing time when an elderly rhino came to drink at the pond where we were waiting to see it.

Just within the time limit and on our last day of safari, we managed to see the last of the Big 5 that we hadn’t yet encountered. Spectacular!

Having left a little later than the allowed time, thanks to the courtesy of the park rangers, we headed to the Kamboyo campsite, the other campsite in Tsavo West that I mentioned in the Day 3 route. It’s about an hour from the Rhino Sanctuary. On the way to the campsite, another surprise: we found two female lions resting near a waterhole. Incredible—just us and the lions, with plenty of time to photograph and observe them:

After spending some time with the lions, we arrived a bit late at the campsite, but with just enough light to find some firewood and set up the tent. This campsite is undoubtedly the best of all the ones we’ve stayed at. It’s completely new, with freshly built facilities, and it’s fenced. Plus, we have no neighbors tonight—amazing!

Day 8 – Return to Nairobi

On our second-to-last day, we took advantage of the morning to explore some paths filled with waterholes to see more animals, mainly antelopes and buffaloes. From there, we set off for Nairobi.

We had 4-5 hours of driving ahead to the capital, where we would return the car and take the opportunity to buy souvenirs at the Maasai Market located in central Nairobi.

In these markets, you’ll often be pestered by so-called “brokers” who will always try to inflate the prices outrageously. They can be very annoying. If you want to buy at reasonable prices without dealing with middlemen, you need to try to get rid of them and negotiate directly with the stall owners, with whom you can bargain calmly and sensibly.

Finally, we spent our last night in a hotel in the city center before flying back home the next day on Day 9.

Last tips…

In summary, I’ve detailed what we did, but here are the main fundamental ideas to help you organize a safari on your own and modify what you see necessary according to your preferences:

• Preparation and Necessary Equipment: For a self-organized safari in Kenya, it’s essential to bring all your camping gear from home, including a tent, sleeping bags, and cooking utensils. This ensures you’re well-equipped for camping in the national parks.

• Cost Optimization: Renting a 4×4 vehicle through local companies is significantly more economical than going through the options that appear on Google. Additionally, you can save money by bringing canned food from your home country.

• Safety and Park Rules: It’s important to follow safety rules in the parks, such as not leaving the vehicle and camping only in designated areas. Lighting a fire at the campsite can keep wild animals away during the night.

• Itinerary Planning: Organizing a well-planned itinerary that includes visits to different parks like Amboseli, Tsavo West, and Tsavo East is key to maximizing wildlife sightings, especially if you consider the best times of day to observe the animals.

• Flexibility and Unique Experiences: An independent safari allows for a more authentic and flexible experience, adjusting the pace of the trip according to personal preferences. Plus, you can enjoy unique moments like camping in the midst of the wild and observing animals in their natural habitat without the typical crowds of organized safaris.